Wednesday, August 29, 2012

September Seasonal Japanese Seafood

Grilled Nishin


While summer heat is still bearing down slowly autumn seafood are coming into the market. Hokkaido harvested its first akijake this week as well as sanma from Choshi port in Chiba. We love asari clams with pasta.
Nishin is a very fish fish, but easier on the palate when grilled. Hirame is excellent as sashimi. And, when we can’t finish it all in one night we’ll wrap it with kombu and have it as kobujime sashimi the next night. The hirame becomes rich with umami from the kombu. Hotate gai is sweet as sashimi, and irresistible when sautéed with a bit of butter. Kinki is a small (and expensive) fish that we love simmered in a rich soy broth. Finally, Shinji’s favorite tachiuo recipe is sashimi seasoned with a bit of sesame oil and a hint of salt.

Click on the Japanese name to see a photo of the seafood.


Ainame 鮎並 fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii)
Aka garei 赤鰈flathead flounder (Hippoglossoides dubius)
Akijake 秋鮭
Amaebi 甘海老 sweet shrimp(Pandalus borealis)
Asaba garei 浅羽 dusky sole (Lepidopsetta bilineata)
Asahigani spanner crab (Ranina ranina)
Asari 浅蜊 Japanese little neck clam (Ruditapes philippinarum)
Awabi abalone (Haliotis sorenseni)
Ayu sweetfish (Plecoglossus altivelis altivelis)
Baka gai 馬鹿貝 surf clam (Mactra chinensis)
Benizuwai gani 紅頭矮蟹 red snow crab (Chionoecetes japonicus)
Botan ebi ボタンエビ Botan shrimp  (Pandalus nipponesis)
Chidai   血鯛  crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)
Dojou 泥鰌 loach (Misgurnus Anguillicaudatus)
Ezo bafununi 蝦夷馬糞海胆 short-spined sea urchin (Strongylocentrotus intermedius)
Ezobora 蝦夷法螺whelk (Neptunea polycostata)
Hakkaku 八角 sailfin poacher (Podothecus sachi)
Also called tokubire
Hanasaki gani 花咲蟹  spiny king crab (Paralithodes brevipes)
Hata hata   sailfin sandfish (Arctoscopus japonicus)
Hime ezobora 姫蝦夷法螺  sea snail (Neptunea arthritica)
Hirame olive halibut (Paralichthys olivaceus) – KOBUJIME HIRAME POST
Hokke 𩸽 arabesque greenling (Pleurogrammus azonus)
Hokki gai (uba gai) 姥貝 hen clam (Pseudocardium sachalinense)
Hokkoku akaebi 北国赤蝦  Alaskan pink shrimp (Pandalus borealis)
Hon maguro (or kuromaguro) 黒鮪 bluefin tuna (Thunus thynnus)
Hotate gai 帆立貝 Japanese scallop (Mizuhopecten yessoensis)
Ibodai 疣鯛 butterfish (Psenopsis anomala)
Inadaイナダ young Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Kaki  牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)
Kamasu 大和叺 barracuda (Sphyraena japonica)
Katakuchi iwashi 片口鰯 Japanese anchovy (Engraulis japonicus)
Katsuo   skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kawa yatsume 川八目Japanese lamprey (Lampetra japonica)
Kawagarei or Numagarei沼鰈starry flounder (Platichthys stellatus)
Kegani 毛蟹 horsehair crab (Erimacrus isenbeckii)
Kinki or Kichiji黄血魚thornhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)
Kita murasakiuni 北紫海胆 Northern sea urchin (Strongylocentrotus nudus)
Kouika 甲烏賊 cuttlefish (Sepia (Platysepia) esculenta)
Kounago 小女子 Japanese sand lance (Ammodytes personatus)
Kuro gashiragarei 黒頭鰈 cresthead flounder (Pleuronectes schrenki)
Kurokarei 黒鰈 black plaice (Pleuronectes obscurus)

Kuromutsu 黒鯥 Japanese bluefish or bigeye (Scombrops gilberti)
Kuruma ebi 車海老 kuruma prawn (Penaeus (Melicertus) japonicus)
Ma anago 真穴子 conger eel (Conger myriaster)
Magarei 真鰈 littlemouth flounder (Pleuronectes herzensteini)
Maiwashi 真鰯  Japanese sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Mako garei 真子鰈 marbled flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Managatsuo 真名鰹 silver pomfret (Pampus punctatissimus)
Masaba真鯖 Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Masu trout (there are many types of trout – see nijimasu, sakuramasu)
Mizudako 水蛸 North Pacific giant octopus (Octopus dofleini)
Namako 真海鼠 Japanese sea cucumber (Stichopus japonica)
Niji masu 虹鱒 rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss)
Nishin Pacific herring (Clupea pallasii)
Sake salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)
Sakura masu 桜鱒 cherry salmon (Oncorhynchus masou maso)
Sanma 秋刀魚 Pacific saury (Cololabis saira)
Saragai 皿貝 Northern great tellin (Megangulus venulosa)
Shijimi 大和蜆 corbicula clam (Corbicula japonica)
Shirauo 白魚 icefish (Salangichthys microdon)
Shiro ika 烏賊  swordtip squid (Loligo (Photololigo) edulis)* or kensaki ika
Souhachi 宗八鰈 pointhead flounder (Cleishenes pinetorum)
Suketou dara Alaska pollack (Theragra chalcogramma)
Suna garei 砂鰈 sand flounder (Limanda punctatissima)
Surumeika 鯣烏賊 Japanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)
Tachiuo 太刀魚 cutlassfish (Trichiurus lepturus)
Tarabagani 鱈場蟹 Alaska king crab (Paralithodes camtschaticus)
Torigai 鳥貝 Japanese cockle (Fulvia mutica)
Unagi Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica)
Wakasagi 若細魚 Japanese smelt (Hypomesus nipponensis)
WarasaJapanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Yanagi no mai 柳の舞 yellow rockfish (Sebastes steindachneri)

Monday, August 20, 2012

Reimen Cold Nodles for Summer


When the heat and humidity of Tokyo's summers bear down we try and do as little cooking as possible. Cold noodles always hit the spot like soumen or soba. Another favorite cold noodle dish we love is reimen, a popular food from Morioka in Iwate prefecture in Tohoku.

The toppings are simple. Julienned cucumbers, kimchi, julienned Japanese omelet, and some stir-fried beef. I believe this dish is traditionally served with a hard-boiled egg but we were in a rush to get our lunch on the table. To this you could also add some fruit tomatoes or for some sweetness some thinly sliced nashi.



When we lived in New York we often bought several packages of reimen at H-Mart, the Korean supermarket. Back in Tokyo, our neighborhood Seiyu supermarket had several brands of reimen in the refrigerator section. This pack comes from Osaka Tsuruhashi, a famous part of Osaka for its many Korean shops.

The noodles only need to be cooked for a minute. The package comes with a pack of lightly flavored dashi. I love to freeze the packet for a little bit some some of the soup stock is slightly frozen like a slushy.

If you can't make this at home, look for it at Iwate restaurants like Pyon-Pyon Sha in Ginza. Alternatively, many Korean restaurants will serve this dish in the summertime.

Thursday, August 2, 2012

August Seasonal Japanese Seafood

Anago Tempura


Some of my favorite seafood is in season this time of year, particularly unagi and anago. For unagi I love Nodaiwa and for anago, Tamai in Nihonbashi is a treat. Kamasu(barracuda) is lovely just salted and grilled. The meat is light and flakey. Kawahagi (thread-sail filefish) sashimi is light and delicate. If the fish is very fresh the liver can also be eaten. We love to mix the fresh liver with some soy sauce and dip the kawahagi sashimi into the creamy dip. Tachiuo(cutlassfish) is also very nice as sashimias it too is a light whitefish. One of our favorite preparations of tachiuo sashimi is to mix it with a bit of aromatic sesame oil and salt.

Ainame 鮎並 fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii)
Aka isaki 赤伊佐幾 Schlegel's red bass (Caprodon schlegelii)
Akashita birame 赤舌鮃  red-tongued sole (Cynoglossus joyneri)
Awabi abalone (Haliotis sorenseni)
Ayu sweetfish (Plecoglossus altivelis altivelis)
Benisake べにさけ 紅鮭 sockeye salmon (Oncorhynchus nerka)
Hamo   pike eel or pike conger (Muraenesox cinereus)
Hiramasa 平政 yellowtail amberjack (Seriola lalandi)
Hoya 海鞘 sea squirt(Halocynthia roretzi)
Inadaイナダ young Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)
Stages of buri: wakashi, inada, warasa, buri
Isaki 伊佐幾 chicken grunt  (Parapristipoma trilineatum)
Ishidai 石鯛  barred knifejaw (Oplegnathus fasciatus)
Ishimochi イシモチ nibe croaker (Nibea mitsukurii)
Iwana 日光岩魚 whitespotted char (Salvelinus leucomaenis pluvius)
Kamasu 大和叺 barracuda (Sphyraena japonica)
Kanpachi  間八amberjack or yellowtail (Seriola dumerili)
Karei littlemouth flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Katsuo  skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)
Kawahagi 皮剥 thread-sail filefish (Stephanolepis cirrhifer)
Kensaki ika 剣先烏賊 swordtip squid (Loligo edulis)
Kijihata (Akahata)雉羽太 red-spotted grouper (Epinephelus akaara)
Kisu Japanese whiting (Sillago japonica)*or shirogisu
Kochi bartail flathead (Platycephalus)
Koyari-ika槍烏賊  baby spear squid (Loligo bleekeri)
Ma-anago 真穴子 whitespotted conger (Conger myriaster)
Maiwashi 真鰯  Japanese sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)
Makogarei 真子鰈 marbled sole (Pleuronectes yokohamae)
Masaba真鯖Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Matsubu (Ezobora)まつぶ(えぞぼらJapanese neptune or whelk (Neptunea polycostata)
Mehikari  目光greeneyes (Chlorophthalmus borealis)
Mejimaguro めじまぐろ young tuna (genus Thunnus)
Nijimasu 虹鱒 rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss)
Oni-okoze  鬼虎魚 spiny devilfish (Inimicus japonicus)
Saba  Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)
Saragai 皿貝 Northern great tellin (Megangulus venulosa)
Shiira  しいら dorado or mahi-mahi (Coryphaena hippurus)
Shima-aji  島鯵 striped jack or white trevally (Pseudocaranx dentex)
Shinko (Konoshiro)dotted gizzard shad (Konosirus punctatus)
Surumei ika するめいか 鯣烏賊Japanese common squid (or flying squid) (Todarodes pacificus)
Suzuki   Japanese sea perch (Lateolabrax japonicus)
Tachiuo 太刀魚 cutlassfish (Trichiurus lepturus)
Tobiuo 飛魚 Japanese flying fish (Cypselurus agoo)
Unagi Japanese eel  (Anguilla japonica)