Anago Chirashizushi 穴子ちらし寿司

My aunt in Osaka has a lot in common with my husband. They have both worked at retail stores selling seafood. I love shopping with both of them as I always learn about new seafood and what to look for before purchasing something.

My Osaka aunt is also a great cook. As a mother of three she managed keeping everyone well fed. With three men in the house there was always a lot of food on the table.

When I visit her we often have the local favorite okonomiyaki. But there is one dish that I will always associate with her. Anago (or unagi if you can't get anago) chirashizushi. It's an economical way to have anago and unagi which is really expensive this year. There are enough vegetables in the dish so this and a bowl of soup is perfect for lunch.

Anago and unagi are both in season this time of year. The anago I found at the market was already grilled and cut up. Thinly slice a Japanese cucumber, lightly salt it, set aside for a few minutes, and then squeeze of excess water. Meanwhile julienne some shiso and a myoga. In a large donburi bowl combine rice, anago, salted cucumbers, shiso, and myoga. Add some toasted sesame seeds and stir to combine.

The anago is a bit meaty so it is perfectly balanced by the juicy cucumbers, refreshing shiso and the myoga that packs a tiny punch. If you are lucky enough to have anago or unagi in your market then this is a dish worth making.

Popular Miso Soup Ingredients

1The Asahi Shimbun reported on September 15th, 2012, results from a survey of the most popular fillings for miso soup. Many are as one would expect:

11.    Tofu

22.    Wakame

33.    Abura-age (deep-fried tofu)

44.    Asari (Japanese littleneck clam)

55.    Shijimi (corbicula clam)

66.    Nameko mushroom

77.    Naganegi (Japanese leek)

88.    Jagaimo (potato)

99.    Tamanegi (onion)

110. Daikon

111. Nasu (eggplant)

112. Tamago (egg)

113. Fu (wheat gluten)

114. Satoimo (taro root)

115. Enokidake mushroom

116.  Satsumaimo (sweet potato)

117. Myoga ginger

118. Kabocha squash

119. Mitsuba (trefoil)

220. Kyabbetsu (cabbage)

221. Kani (crab)

The popular tofu (including abura-age) and wakame will mix with a variety of other fillings. These two are also affordable and easy to work with in the kitchen so quick to get onto the table. Most likely, these are also in the house and available.

Asariand shijimi are great for making a naturally flavorful broth. Some people don’t bother eating the meat of the clams, but for some, especially children, digging out the meat is part of the fun.

Surprising fillings that did not make the top twenty, but are sometimes used, include cucumbers for a light soup and tomatoes for its sweetness and acidity. Both of these vegetables also suit a chilled miso soup. Tomatoes are famous for being paired with miso as both are rich in umami so it's no surprise to see it used.

When I am in a rush to get a bowl of soup on the table, I often use Marukome ekitai miso. It is a liquid miso that includes dashi. Simply cook the fillings in water and add some of the liquid miso.

Many responders replied that almost anything can be put into miso soup. I personally love tonjiru, a hearty miso soup with thinly sliced pork, gobo, konnyaku, potatoes, carrots. Meat in the soup makes it rich and the different vegetables and konnyaku add a texture that is missing from more simple soups.

But most of the time it's very basic vegetables from the list above. Some responders like to make miso soup filled with a variety of vegetables. My cousin is one of those people. Usually five to six vegetables. I always look forward to having miso soup at her home.

Yamagata Dashi 山形だし

One of my addictions this time of year is Yamagata dashi. Simply finely chopped seasonal vegetables, mainly cucumbers, eggplants, and okra. It is best on a bowl of rice, but also on many other dishes like on boiled octopus (photo above) or over tofu (photo below).

Yamagata dashi is refreshing, especially on hot summer days when it is in season. It is a local dish from Yamagata where my mother is from.

If you are not keen on making it at home, it can be purchased at most supermarkets in August and into early September. The photos above are from the package above. It's a bit salty for my taste and is very easy to make at home.

Yamagata Dashi
1 eggplant
1 cucumber
4 okra
1 myoga
3 green shiso leaves
1 Tablespoon natto kombu
soy sauce, as needed

Mix the natto kombu with a bit of soy sauce and set aside. Finely mince the eggplant, cucumber, myoga, and shiso. Mix the natto kombu with a spoon until it's a bit sticky and then add the minced vegetables. This is the basic Yamagata Dashi and for me this is exactly as I like it. Simple is best. Optional additions include minced ginger, mirin, sake, dashi, ichimi togarashi (dried red chili pepper), katsuobushi, or toasted white sesame seeds.

Best over a bowl of steaming rice as in this photo. I suggest making it in small batches as the aroma of the myoga and shiso are best as soon as it's cut. The fresh vegetables also showcase their texture when it's freshly made.

Other serving suggestions include serving it with somen or soba, mixed with a light vinaigrette and used as a salad dressing.

September Seasonal Japanese Seafood

Grilled Nishin

While summer heat is still bearing down slowly autumn seafood are coming into the market. Hokkaido harvested its first akijake this week as well as sanma from Choshi port in Chiba. We love asari clams with pasta.

Nishin is a very fish fish, but easier on the palate when grilled. Hirame is excellent as sashimi. And, when we can’t finish it all in one night we’ll wrap it with kombu and have it as kobujime sashimi the next night. The hirame becomes rich with umami from the kombu. Hotate gai is sweet as sashimi, and irresistible when sautéed with a bit of butter. Kinki is a small (and expensive) fish that we love simmered in a rich soy broth. Finally, Shinji’s favorite tachiuo recipe is sashimi seasoned with a bit of sesame oil and a hint of salt.

Click on the Japanese name to see a photo of the seafood.

Ainame 鮎並 fat greenling (Hexagrammos otakii)

Aka garei 赤鰈flathead flounder (Hippoglossoides dubius)

Akijake 秋鮭

Amaebi 甘海老 sweet shrimp(Pandalus borealis)

Asaba garei 浅羽鰈 dusky sole (Lepidopsetta bilineata)

Asahigani spanner crab (Ranina ranina)

Asari 浅蜊 Japanese little neck clam (Ruditapes philippinarum)

Awabi 鮑 abalone (Haliotis sorenseni)

Ayu 鮎 sweetfish (Plecoglossus altivelis altivelis)

Baka gai 馬鹿貝 surf clam (Mactra chinensis)

Benizuwai gani 紅頭矮蟹　red snow crab (Chionoecetes japonicus)

Botan ebi ボタンエビ Botan shrimp  (Pandalus nipponesis)

Chidai   血鯛  crimson sea bream (Evynnis japonica)

Dojou 泥鰌 loach (Misgurnus Anguillicaudatus)

Ezo bafununi 蝦夷馬糞海胆 short-spined sea urchin (Strongylocentrotus intermedius)

Ezobora 蝦夷法螺whelk (Neptunea polycostata)

Hakkaku 八角 sailfin poacher (Podothecus sachi)

Also called tokubire

Hanasaki gani 花咲蟹  spiny king crab (Paralithodes brevipes)

Hata hata 鰰  sailfin sandfish (Arctoscopus japonicus)

Hime ezobora 姫蝦夷法螺  sea snail (Neptunea arthritica)

Hirame 鮃 olive halibut (Paralichthys olivaceus) – KOBUJIME HIRAME POST

Hokke 𩸽 arabesque greenling (Pleurogrammus azonus)

Hokki gai (uba gai) 姥貝 hen clam (Pseudocardium sachalinense)

Hokkoku akaebi 北国赤蝦  Alaskan pink shrimp (Pandalus borealis)

Hon maguro (or kuromaguro) 黒鮪 bluefin tuna (Thunus thynnus)

Hotate gai 帆立貝 Japanese scallop (Mizuhopecten yessoensis)

Ibodai 疣鯛 butterfish (Psenopsis anomala)

Inadaイナダ young Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)

Kaki  牡蠣 oyster (Crassostrea gigas)

Kamasu 大和叺 barracuda (Sphyraena japonica)

Katakuchi iwashi 片口鰯 Japanese anchovy (Engraulis japonicus)

Katsuo 鰹  skipjack tuna or oceanic bonito (Katsuwonus pelamis)

Kawa yatsume 川八目Japanese lamprey (Lampetra japonica)

Kawagarei or Numagarei沼鰈starry flounder (Platichthys stellatus)

Kegani 毛蟹 horsehair crab (Erimacrus isenbeckii)

Kinki or Kichiji黄血魚thornhead (Sebastolobus macrochir)

Kita murasakiuni 北紫海胆 Northern sea urchin (Strongylocentrotus nudus)

Kouika 甲烏賊 cuttlefish (Sepia (Platysepia) esculenta)

Kounago 小女子 Japanese sand lance (Ammodytes personatus)

Kuro gashiragarei 黒頭鰈 cresthead flounder (Pleuronectes schrenki)

Kurokarei 黒鰈 black plaice (Pleuronectes obscurus)

Kuromutsu 黒鯥 Japanese bluefish or bigeye (Scombrops gilberti)

Kuruma ebi 車海老 kuruma prawn (Penaeus (Melicertus) japonicus)

Ma anago 真穴子 conger eel (Conger myriaster)

Magarei 真鰈 littlemouth flounder (Pleuronectes herzensteini)

Maiwashi 真鰯  Japanese sardine (Sardinops melanostictus)

Mako garei 真子鰈 marbled flounder (Pleuronectes yokohamae)

Managatsuo 真名鰹 silver pomfret (Pampus punctatissimus)

Masaba真鯖 Pacific mackerel (Scomber japonicus)

Masu 鱒 trout (there are many types of trout – see nijimasu, sakuramasu)

Mizudako 水蛸 North Pacific giant octopus (Octopus dofleini)

Namako 真海鼠 Japanese sea cucumber (Stichopus japonica)

Niji masu 虹鱒 rainbow trout (Oncorhynchus mykiss)

Nishin 鰊 Pacific herring (Clupea pallasii)

Sake 鮭 salmon (Oncorhynchus keta)

Sakura masu 桜鱒 cherry salmon (Oncorhynchus masou maso)

Sanma 秋刀魚 Pacific saury (Cololabis saira)

Saragai 皿貝 Northern great tellin (Megangulus venulosa)

Shijimi 大和蜆 corbicula clam (Corbicula japonica)

Shirauo 白魚 icefish (Salangichthys microdon)

Shiro ika 白烏賊  swordtip squid (Loligo (Photololigo) edulis)* or kensaki ika

Souhachi 宗八鰈 pointhead flounder (Cleishenes pinetorum)

Suketou dara 鯳 Alaska pollack (Theragra chalcogramma)

Suna garei 砂鰈 sand flounder (Limanda punctatissima)

Surumeika 鯣烏賊 Japanese flying squid (Todarodes pacificus)

Tachiuo 太刀魚 cutlassfish (Trichiurus lepturus)

Tarabagani 鱈場蟹 Alaska king crab (Paralithodes camtschaticus)

Torigai 鳥貝 Japanese cockle (Fulvia mutica)

Unagi 鰻 Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica)

Wakasagi 若細魚 Japanese smelt (Hypomesus nipponensis)

Warasa鰤Japanese amberjack (Seriola quinqueradiata)

Yanagi no mai 柳の舞 yellow rockfish (Sebastes steindachneri)